Indochina Journal 6: Summary for Transport January 22, 2006

There were several consideration that need attention to independent traveler who want to go this area:

1.The condition for Laos was not too dangerous, but you must be willing to any transport available. Mini-Van for tourists (non local) could be ordered anywhere, while the public’s transport such as bus and boat are widely acceptable.

2. Loaung Phabang was more organised and embraced tourism.
Although the road were unpaved but facilities such as guesthouses, hotels, restauranst, and travel agents were easy to find. In here also you could arrange visas to any neighboring countries like China, Myanmar, Vietnam.

3. Northern Thai mountains especially in Chiang Mai very popular to backpackers. But if you go to Chiang Do -90km or 2 hours with sangtheauw, you will be avoided by the bustle of tourists especially in trekking season.

4.The prices summarized below were based on high season (Deceember). If you travel in low season so assume that you will spend 60% of the rate. If you travel alone the price just slightly the the same as you were travel in low season.

Legs of Transportation (the price based per person)

Singapore – Chiang Mai with Tiger Airways SGD210.23 (inc tax)
Chiang Mai – Louang Phabang 1,900BHT (inc stay overnight at Chiang Khong and Mekong speedboat)
Louang Phabang – Van Vieng with bus of US$8
Van Vieng – Vientiene with mini-van of US$7
Vientiene – Nong Khai with taxi US$8 (for two)
Nong Khai – Bangkok by train 568BHT with bed
Bangkok – Singapore with Tiger Airways 3,825BHT (service charge at Don Muang 500BHT)

Accomodation (note: price based for two sharing)

1. Chiang Mai
EagleHouse, 190BHT per room, guesthouse, double with fan
6 Chang Moi Gao Road, Soi 3, Chiang Mai 50 300.
THAILAND. TEL: 053 874 126 or.
TEL: 053 235 387.
New:- 24 HOUR FAX: 053 874 366.
Contact: Annete at mail@eaglehouse.com
web: http://www.eaglehouse.com/
Comments: we stayed at EH 1 that its location little bit further down outer city tunnel. Bathroom was clean and an extra bed. Willing to pick up in the airport

2.Chiang Dao
Chiang Dao Nest, 398BHT per room, bungalow, AC
144/4 m.3 Chiang Dao, Chiang Mai, 50170, Thailand
TEL: +66 53 456242
Contact: Stuart Cavaliero at nest@chiangdao.com
website: http://nest.chiangdao.com/
Comments: the bungalow was great, view was facing to Chiang Dao mountain, Thai
buffet from the restaurant was the best.

3. Louang Phabang
Sokdhee Guesthouse, US12 per cream with fan
Old City in the Manthatoulat road
Comments: did not have a view, but the house was a traditional wooden house. Bathroom was clean and hot shower.

4.Van Vieng
The Villa Nam Song, ranch type, US30 per room, double with AC
TEL: 00.856.23.511.016
Contact: Mrs Marie-Helene at reservation.namsong@gmail.com
Direction : from the bus station, walk 10 minutes acrross gravel road afterwards turnleft headed bamboo bridge. This villa just beside the bridge and Bungalow Thavonsouk (best known in Van Vieng).
Comments: scenery of limestone across the river was extraordinary, sat in the terrace restaurant laid back. Very recommended.
5.Vientiene
Haysoke Guesthouse, US$15 double with AC
083/1-2 HengBoon St B. Haysoke
Vientiene Lao PDR
TEL: 007 (856 21) 219711/22
Comments: clean and have a big room, very far from the river bank. Close to National Museum.

6.Bangkok
Happy House, 495BHT double with AC
46 Soi Chanasongkhram, Pre Athit Rd, Pranakorn, BKK
TEL: 02-2803301/02-2803306
Direction: Khaosan Rd turn left to direction Rambhutri road
Comments : clean and tidy, only the room was rather crowded.

Other link:
Guesthouses in Louang Prabang

Indochina Journal 5 : Welcome to Backpacker’s Capital City January 9, 2006

Originally uploaded by About Asia.

Bangkok, 4 January 2006

Got off from train station in Hualamphong, we hurried looked for the taxi. We met two Kiwis to share a taxi to Khaosan Rd. Only 50BHT for four people it seems that was the good price. The Kiwis did similar loop route like us, but they started and ended in Bangkok. Then begun ritual backpacker: walking down street looking for accommodation. In Khaosan Rd it was rare to book in advance for room. Easy way to do is : came, asked, checked, and got it !. We were lucky had 1 room in Happy House with the price 495BHT.

Like the legend of backpacker itself, Khaosan Rd was a trade mark. Its place that strategic close to Grand Palace, the Port 13 of Chao Phraya rivers and National Gallery made Khaosan were easy to be accessed.

Also you will see the impact of cross culture happened. Tempted by Asia’s charm, people from the European country and Australia made Thailand the main stopover before heading to other exotic places like Bali and India. In minutes you will see the bands of backpacker wandering around for food or simply reading the books.

Here you will see travel agent busy arranging visas or served the transport to the other part of the country. Name sign for laundry a kilo for 25BHT scattered along the street collide with street vendors. Everything was sold and bought here.

Bangkok is a picture of Asian city. Chaos, noisy and confusing. I had quick notice of what they called tuk-tuk. Three wheeled bike with seat in back that transfer you to any other part of city. I found tuk-tuk was not really good for transport effectively. Because of the driver did not speaking English and no map knowledge. I use boat more often passed through the river or tunnel. In three days I did recovering from my upset tummy and also prepare my broken heart after failing into Vietnam.

Indochina Journal 4: My first Comitted Crime in Thailand January 8, 2006

Bangkok, 1 January 2006

From Vang Vieng we moved to Vientiene.The mini-van was ordered through the receptionist at the Villa Nam Song cost $7 departed at 1.30 pm. The road condition was not too bad only this vehicle appreared to be too slow. It took 2 hours in moderate speed but apparently 3.5 hours were standard here.

Vientiene was not too impressive for us. Possibly because we visited the best places in Laos that made the capital looked dingy. Anyway we stayed at Haysoke Guesthouse -clean and big with $15 for two inc AC. We enjoyed the New Year here, walked down the streets feel the atmosphere of a big night.

Next day we went to the Wattay airport, but then just realised that Mark needed visas to Vietnam.Unfortunately at January 1 almost all the offices and travel agent were closed. While Monday was a the bank holiday).Then the possibility of arranging visa was on Tuesday (3/01), the fastest service need at least 24 hours.. While we must return to Singapore at Thursday night. So we cancelled our travel to Hanoi on that day.

Our consideration were: one -as soon as possible to get out from Vientiene, two-think about the alternative destination furthermore without require a visa , three-e transport must be easy and must be in reasonable distance. We thought Bangkok likely more promising.
Aalthough we did not like big city, at least we will have more photo opportunity here. We thought about transportation. The bus needed 20 hours, while the train would need overnight. Also we already crossed Friendship Bridge -the main border of Laos and Thailand.
We decided to take an overnight train from Nong Khai departed 705pm and arrived in Bangkok 7.35am. With the ticket 568BHT we would be able to the sleep at a very comfortable bed. But in here was my first “crime” occurred.

At 5am suddenly I felt so sick. I reckoned something that we ate before that contains some bug and upset my stomach. I couldn’t wait anymore, I had vomit in a very clean sheet bed. Don’t know what to do but sure I have to report it to cleaning boy. Ow if you saw his face I felt so guilty. Also not to mention the fine threat that was brought forward by him. The security walked pass several times in our compartment but only caught a person without the ticket two bed apart from me. Ufff ……nearly

Indochina Journal 2: Crossed the Border January 8, 2006

_DSC2691
Originally uploaded by About Asia.

Louang Phabang, 28 Dec 2005 at 5:31pmBeyond the main gate was inscribed “Gate to the Indochina” I felt ready set my foot on it. Visa for Laos could be done in 1 hour cost 1,500BHT for all citizenship. Huoay Xai (Laos side) only five minutes on boat from Chiang Khong (Thai side). The imimigration office no more than 3×5m that was full a fflock of traveller from various countries. We found a counter to exchange our 20US dollars into kip. It turned out to be a whole bunch of kip notes.

This is what we were waiting for, a speedboat down Mekong river. The small long tailed boat with only 6 passengers was propelled with the Toyota 16valve engine. The speedboat is only for those hooked on adrenalin. You don’t only need to contend with the speed and the manoeuvrability over shallow river but the exhilarating wind in your face as you were sat squashed up in to a patch of floor less than 2ft Square, all meant the trip could be classified as an endurance test. Oh we also had ear-plug as well to reduce noise from the Toyota beast as there was no silencer on the exhaust.

But scenery was really amazing as we passed by at 50MPH. The Mekong was unlike the river I had imagined. The hills and mountains in the background were awesome ! It took seven hours in the boat, certainly exhausting trip. We stopped several times by the villages or local food stall stretched along the river. When the sun down we reached Ban Don village about 7km from Louang Phabang.

Nine of us bargained tuk-tuk to carry into main city. $2 each seemed outrages for chinese people that got off same time with us. We tried to bargain based the price of a vehicle rather than per person. The driver agreed with $10 delivered as far as Old City. We stayed in Sokdhee Guesthouse, and enjoyed Louang Phabang- one of the old kingdoms that was crowned as World Heritage. It was so peaceful and calm just like river Mekong that flowed by the city.

Indochina Journal 1: Christmas with Pom January 8, 2006

Christmas with Pom
Originally uploaded by About Asia.

Chiang Mai, 26th December 2005 at 8.11pm

Here we are, six foreigners were casted in a bamboo hut in the settlement of the Lisu ethnic group at Chiang Do territory 90 km north Chiang Mai Thailand. Accompanied by a candle and Chang beer, Pom and Nata -our host entertained us in their simple house. Christmas Eve was celebrated simply by shared story about the ethnic group’s Lisu culture -a group that originally from China and spread in the Thai border territory, Burma and Laos.

Pom was pretty, smart and very good spoke English, while Nata could understand us. Pom cooked dinner : gourd soup and veg stir fry.Nata was our guide for the second day trekking. Pom explained about the Lisu culture while we were eager to listen and ask questions. As a teacher Pom is really ideal. Her knowledge was very broad, from Sasame Street to the books. She amazed when she listen to Harry Potter and Half Prince Blood read by Stephen Fry on mp3 player.

For the third day trekking only the two of us remained, others withdrew as they did not have suitable footware for the slippery condition. In fact this was a rare opportunity to visit isolated villages in Chiang Do National Park. Today we return Chiang Mai headed to the border of Laos through Chiang Khong. The bus trip and boat required us to spend overnight. I can’t wait for the Mekong journey.