Onroad 4 Borneo Revisited : Clearwater Connection March 23, 2006

Mulu 6-11 March 2006

Setelah beberapa hari hanya melihat show caves, canopy walk, makan jungle fern dan rusa acara selanjutnya adalah adventure caving. Sebelumnya kami menghubungi TN Mulu untuk merekomendasikan gua2 yang pantas. Serawak Chamber adalah incaran kami, bukan hanya terbesar didunia tapi juga memerlukan trekking lumayan jauh sebelum memasuki mulut gua.

Ternyata TN Mulu malah menyarankan Clearwater Connection. Meski tidak segede Serawak Chamber tapi caving disini lebih ‘fun’ dan menantang. Keduanya tidak memerlukan peralatan SRT, namun pihak TN memasang tali pengaman/lifeline di setiap section yang dianggap berbahaya seperti tebing, tranverse ataupun menyeberangi sungai. Berikut trip summary :

Clearwater Connection

Date/Day : 9 Maret 2006, Thursday
Location : Mulu National Park, Serawak Malaysia
Access : Miri –Mulu with Malaysia Airlines 3x perday day (RM120’s one way : tarip ini perkiraan), sewa boat return each RM25 drop in Wind Cave and pick up at Clearwater Cave
Guide fee : RM300 for a group (consist 1-5 people per group), conservation fee RM10 each
Time : 930am-4pm (untuk trip di dalam gua dihitung 5.5 jam)
Length : 4.8km (1.5km terakhir menyusuri sungai). Untuk Clearwater Cave System total 108km ( terpanjang di Asia Tenggara)
Participants : Ambar, Mark, Paul, Jack, Jerry (guide), Jenny (guide)
Photos : Flickr dan Multiply

Kami mulai pagi hari untuk register dengan guide. Hari itu kami ditemani dua orang guide : Jerry dan Jenny (yups …yang terakhir ini cewek ). Kami bertiga ditambah seorang muda dari Manchester (sebut saja Jack). Selesai registrasi kami diberi helm caving lengkap dengan lampu LCD (Petzl : membuktikan standar safety mereka betul-betul diperhatikan). Kami sempat bergurau bahwa helm yang biasa kami pakai di UK jauh dibawah kualitas ini (headtorch di helm ditambal isolasi tahan air). Sebelumnya kami korespondensi dengan pihak TN terutama menanyakan pengalaman caving yang mereka inginkan. Kebetulan kami bertiga adalah anggota club caving di UK yang secara organisasi masuk BCRA. Tapi masalah perijinan ini tidaklah terlalu ketat seperti yang saya duga. Kalau tidak bisa menunjukkan keanggotaan club/organisasi mereka akan ‘mencoba’ kita pada gua-gua beginner atau intermediete dulu.

Ada 3 gua dengan standar advanced yakni : Serawak Chamber, Clearwater Connection dan Stonehorse. Sedang untuk ‘orang biasa’ yang ingin coba-coba Park Ranger biasanya menyarankan Racer Cave (intermediate). Untuk Clearwater Connection mereka menerapkan dua guide setelah beberapa tahun lalu dua orang gadis dari Eropa Timur beserta seorang guide-nya tersesat dan kehabisan karbit. Saat ini untuk adventure caving di Mulu, pihak TN melarang penggunaan karbit sebagai upaya konservasi. Para guide disana menyediakan batu baterry cadangan jadi cukup untuk trip 6-8 jam.

Tadinya agak gugup juga karena setahun ini praktis saya tidak turun bumi. Dengan adanya Jenny sebagai sesama cewek ternyata membantu menurunkan kadar nervous. Jenny pula yang memimpin tim hingga sungai bawah tanah. Paul kawan kami di UK meski berpengalaman caving ternyata mengidap phobia ketinggian. Walah…..ono-ono wae dan ia cukup bersyukur caving kali ini tidak ada pitch yang cukup dalam. Sedang si Jack mengaku punya pengalaman climbing di……Thailand ! Terus terang agak riskan melakukan trip dengan orang yang sama sekali belum kita tahu kemampuannya. Tapi dia bilang baru turun gunung di Pinnacles. Sebuah bagian dari Gunung Api di Mulu dengan formasi limestone jeruji tajam yang didaki dengan kemampuan climbing diatas rata-rata. Jadi kami percaya dan kita lihat saja kemampuannya.

Kami naik perahu menuju Wind Cave sebuah show cave yang bisa dilalui dengan jalan kaki. Tapi untuk hemat tenaga sebaiknya make perahu. Jalan beberapa saat dulu ke King Chamber sebelum akhirnya sebuah tangga turun dilalui. Start agak lumayan panjang, memang memerlukan climbing dengan lapisan lempung yang membuat licin. Nyaris tidak ada yang curam (dalam arti ‘tranverse’ = melipir). Jalur2nya berliku jadi memang diperlukan ingatan tajam mengenai orientasi dan lokasi. Beberapa point harus turun cukup sempit mengingatkan kami pada tipe2 gua di UK yang sempit dan drop cukup tajam. Saya paling tidak suka kondisi begini karena dengan keterbatasan sorot lampu membuat ngg bisa melihat dasar. Lha iya klo hanya beberapa meter lha klo terusan ?

Beberapa binatang yang kami temui umunya laba-laba, kelelawar, walet dan cricket (=jangkrik?). Beberapa tempat terdapat lapisan guano-kotoran kelelawar yang berbau amonia. Beberapa kali kami berhenti istirahat. Hingga akhirnya mencapai sungai bawah tanah. Permukaan air lumayan hari itu. Sehari sebelumnya wilayah Mulu turun hujan seharian bahkan hingga malam. Titik ini tim leader diganti Jerry yang memimpin penyeberangan zig zag. Untuk keamanan mereka menambah tali pengaman penyeberangan. Seperti de-ja-vue, nervous saya balik lagi. Inget di Yorkshire ketika terbawa arus sungai dan nyaris tenggelam. Untung banget sungai di Clearwater Connection cukup lebar sehingga arusnya ngg kenceng. Kami melewati dalam waktu dibawah 1 jam hingga menemukan kabel listrik untuk pencahayaan show cave.

Kami berakhir di Clearwater Cave dalam suasana gelap gulita. Gua Clearwater dan Wind ini hanya diakses pagi dan siang hari sebagai salah satu upaya konservasi (dan juga hemat listrik). Tak lupa nyemplung mandi di sungai sebagai tanda keberuntungan. Keesokan harinya kami mencoba Stonehorse cave.

Informasi Mulu National Park

Daftar gua di Mulu NT untuk adventure caving :

1. Turtle Cave (B) durasi 45 menit
2. Lagangs Cave (B) durasi 3-4 jam
3. Lagang Cave (Int) durasi 5-6 jam
4. Drunken Forest Cave (Int) durasi 8 jam
5. Racer Cave (Int)
6. Stonehorse (adv) durasi 4-5 jam
7. Clearwater Connection (adv) durasi 6-8 jam
8. Serawak Chamber (adv) durasi 10-15 jam tergantung kondisi

Persyaratan administrasi :

1. Bisa menunjukkan keanggotaan club/organisasi speleologi yang dikenal secara internasional, atau
2. Bisa menunjukkan detail pengalaman caving sebelumnya berupa bukti tertulis pengalaman caving dan kemampuan SRT tiap anggota tim. Dalam daftar itu juga harus memberikan gambaran caving : gua yang dimasuki, vertical rope work, menelusuri gua sempit, climbing, swimming, horisontal/vertical cave systems, atau
3. Melakukan satu dari gua yang dianggap mudah terlebih dulu (biasanya diajukan Racer Cave)

Syarat Umur:
Beginner (B) : min 8 th
Intermediate (Int) : min 12 th
Advanced (Adv) : min 16 th

Untuk reservasi bisa kontak :
Gunung Mulu World Heritage Area
CDT62, 98007 Miri
Serawak, Malaysia
Tel : 60 85 433 561
Fax : 60 85 432 561
Email : enquiries@mulupark.com
Web : http://www.mulupark.com/

Malaysia Airlines :
Miri-Mulu : 10:05 12:45 dan 14:45 (dengan Fokker 50 atau DHT lama perjalanan 30 menit)
Mulu-Miri : 11:25 13:35 dan 15:35

Onroad 3 Borneo Revisited : See Abraham Lincoln March 21, 2006

Sandakan-KK-Miri-Mulu, 5 -7 March 2006

Dari Uncle Tan Camp kami balik lagi ke Gum Gum menuju kota Sandakan jaraknya sekitar 25 km. Kami memilih naik mini biskota. Bis warna ijo ini terlihat tua, terkelupas sana sini, mesinnya juga sedikit ngrek..ngrek. Tapi yang menakjubkan adalah sound sysytem-nya. Dua speaker besar disamping sopir plus 3 speaker kecil mengelilingi bagian bis. Dengan volume yang ngg kalah dengan ravehouse sopir memasang lagu2 hip hop top 40. Dari 50cent, Dr Dre, Black Eye Peas sampe Eminem. Dentumnya yang keras sangat terasa di dinding kaca jendela di samping tempat duduk saya. Menggelegar diantara jalanan Sandakan di siang hari bolong. Wow !

Hari itu hari Minggu. Tujuan kami adalah ATM di Sandakan, sedang airportnya sendiri ada di luar kota. Disini saya baru sadar bahwa kami sehari lebih awal dari rencana semula. Jadi harus merubah seluruh penerbangan domestik yang sudah saya pesan. Di bandara seorang gadis dari Malaysia Airlines dengan simpatik membantu kami. Anehnya tiket yang saya ‘perintahkan’ untuk dikirim ke Sandakan malah terkirim di KL. Jadilah dengan dibantu manajernya kami menyelesaikan dengan cepat. Duh salut banged dengan kinerja mereka.

Sandakan – KK hanya sekitar 45menit, kali ini kami mencari hotel di sekitar chinatown dengan tarip RM65 untuk twin. Keesokan harinya kami mengejar pesawat paling pagi menuju Miri. Dari Miri kami nyambung menuju Mulu pukul 10:05. Tahun lalu ketika pertama mengunjungi Miri saya terpesona dengan bandara yang baru. Bandara Mulu juga bersolek diri dengan tambahan ruang. Kali ini kami memakai Fokker 50, isinya penuh dengan turis baik lokal dan asing. Dengan frekuensi 3X sehari terlihat Mulu mulai menunjukkan nama besarnya. Letaknya di tengah belantara Borneo membuat akses sangat terbatas. Kalau ingin jalan darat Mulu Nat Park bisa dicapai dengan perahu dalam 2 hari dengan 4 tahap. Dengan pesawat hanya membutuhkan 30 menit !

Hari pertama kami lalui dengan tour untuk 2 show cave : Lang Cave dan Deer Cave. Yang paling dramatis adalah Deer Cave karena jalan masuknya yang luar biasa gede. Meski sudah pernah kesana saya tetap terpesona. Di UK saya pernah caving dengan gua terbesar disana : Gapping Gyll yang tingginya 110m, panjang dan lebarnya 145m x 25m. Untuk Deer Cave ini mungkin tiga kali lebih besar dari Gapping Gyll. Bahkan orang Malaysia berujar : gua ini bisa dimasuki 47 biji pesawat Boeing. Hmm agak berlebihan nampaknya…

Salah satu yang menarik adalah bentukan batu di mulut gua membentuk siluet Abraham Lincoln. Untuk melihat siluet ini harus berjalan dulu melewati papan kayu sekitar 50m sebelum memasuki bagian gua yang gelap. Saat ini di Deer Cave sudah dipasang lampu kecil sepanjang jejaknya. Indah sekali kalau dilihat dari ketinggian. Jalan terus sembari membawa lampu senter hingga ke bagian terakhir Deer Cave yaitu Garden of Eden. Sebuah pemandangan mengesankan : mulut gua diterangi cahaya dari luar terlihat penuh tanaman yang kaya akan spesies baru seperti ketika ditemukan tim ekspedisi BCRA di tahun 80an.

Lang Cave meski kecil tapi ornament-nya indah. Ornament seperti curtain dimana-mana. Letak dua gua ini hanya sekitar 10 menit jalan, jadi biasanya diantar ke Lang dulu baru ke Deer Cave. Setelah puas maka segera tontonan berikutnya tak kalah menarik. Jutaan kelelawar keluar dari Deer Cave membentuk gelombang tak henti. Kali ini kami membawa perlengkapan untuk mengabadikan peristiwa ini. Kelelawar ini keluar sekitar pukul 5-6 petang dengan mengeluarkan suara buzzzz seperti lebah. Beberapa elang dan hornbill mengambil kesempatan, mencaplok keleawar yang terbang bergerombol. Sebuah adegan yang mengesankan.

Hari itu kami balik ke penginapan. Sekitar 3.5 km kami tempuh untuk balik ke pintu depan Nat Park. Kami menginap di Royal Mulu Resort untuk merasakan empuknya kasur sebelum keesokan harinya pindah ke akomodasi di Mulu Nat Park. Royal Mulu adalah resort yang dibangun dengan tema natural. Rasanya sangat asing menemukan tempat senyaman ini di tengah lebatnya hutan Borneo.

Onroad 2 Borneo Revisited :This is not HILTON March 16, 2006

Kinabatangan River Borneo, 3-5 March 2005

After a really good night sleep at Summit Lodge in Kinabalu Parks we checked out about 11am to catch the SIDA Express bus to Sandakan. We waited outside the Park until the bright yellow coach turned up. On an email from Eugene, this bus recommended to go to Uncle Tan Wildlife Jungle Camp HQ in Gum Gum village. It took about 4 hours journey to the village. The night before I tried contact Eugene to get latest development about the camp at lower Kinabatangan River. It was flooding in last 3 weeks so we just want to know whether the water level started residing.

On the junction of KK-Sandakan-Tawau, we’ve been stop due the immigration control. The officer with blue uniform in military style carrying riffle jumped up to our bus to checking ID or passport. I sat on the very end of the bus and got my chance. He asked my ID and I gave him my scruffy Indonesian passport. He quick glanced on it and notice few things. Then he smiled (pfffff…thanks God), asked questions in a good manner including where I have been and what I have been doing. The two British bloke just left without checking.

The bus driver knew where we should go. So we ended up in the Batu 16 Gum Gum just by the Uncle Tan office. You can easily spot this office since they put a big sign on top of their second floor where several basic room for stay overnight. We would not stay in this place. We want straight down to the camp –about 2 hours away from the HQ. But we got problem. They did not mention that we should arrive in their office at least at 130pm, otherwise we will missed the shuttle transport to the boat point. I argued that last night when I rang them I clearly mention that we will arrive at 3pm. And we did, not missed a single minute. We understood that we would not get chance to see orang utans at Sepilok Rehabilitation Centre. But that what we wanted. We just want to go to the camp.

After negotiation and calling the big boss (Eugene –apparently he is the son of late Uncle Tan), he agreed to transport us with fancy Toyota 4wheel drive fully AC at 5pm. Thanks for the email correspondence before our arrival and also Mark’s tips about using camera flash. So here we are….on the fancy car. We drove back to the road junction and again met the immigration control. But now they seemed not bothered about us. I asked about these to Shahril -the Uncle Tan driver. He said that Malaysia aware about potential smuggle immigrants from either Indonesia nor Philippine.

About 6pm we reached the Batu Puteh village not far from Kinabatangan Bridge. I saw kids swimming happily in the muddy river when the sun started going down. These kids enjoyed the river just like their parents. Some of the parents went to fishing with nets on a simple boat. A lady showed me proudly her half day fishing : a bucket full of fresh water prawn and fishes. A lovely selection…She said that flooding led more fishes to go further, meant you can easily caught them in the net.

Someone coming with a warm welcome. The guy –about late 20s typical Asian, dark skin, well built, long hair with a black Uncle Tan T-shirt gave a hand to everybody. His name is Lan. He would take us to the camp along with two others kids. On the dark, we set off with the boat. On our way, Lan showed us animals that he’ve seen it in just a glance with his bright spotlight. It took about an hour to reach the camp through oxbow lake and floodplain of Kinabatangan river. As I mention before, the camp in flooding conditions, means that now the camp became a water camp. Actually the location of the camp is by Danau Girang or Lot No 6 on the Wildlife Sanctuary. The sanctuary level means that people can across the land without permission but not allowed to logging or farming.

An oil lamp in the dining room was the only source of light, quietly dimmed the rooms. Sound of owls and frogs gave impression to remoteness of this place. The dining area was the only place that we can stay that night. The rest of the camp was about half on top of water level. The huts that supposed to stay were totally un habituated. On that room we met three people from Sweden that arrived earlier on that day. They been waiting for us for dinner and the night safari. I can see that the room already been set up with 4 matras with mosquito net hanging about 2ft from the floor. This is our dining, bathroom and also sleeping room for the next 3 days. Since I am the only women in this camp, Mark had to drag me out with the boat every time I need to wee (apparently we called it No 1 need and the No 2 need you can guess what it was…).

We had a good dinner on that night, A pack of rice with lots of stir fried vegetables and chicken curry (with lots bones of course !). Then we have a half an hour briefing about what the Wildlife Jungle Camp about. Since flooding we were second guest in this camp. Most of them cancelled the program due the incapability of the place. Imagine that in the dry conditions the camp actually quite spartan and basic. With the flooding even drink water and toilet would be major problems. You’ve got to prepare for this situation. Previously we had to filling the disclaimer form regarding the flooding, including possibility that we couldn’t spot as many as animals that used to be easy to find in this area including elephants and orang utans.

The first night safari were great, we spotted frogs, owls, eagles, scorpions and flying foxes. In two hours we were scattering the river tried to find animals. Lan was really experienced guide. He told us the latin name, common habitat and the diet of each animal we found. I excited with this new experience, specially I am not a wildlife photographer. Lan himself is a keen wildlife photographer. Most of pictures on the board of the camp and the HQ were him. Eugene –his boss also a mad photographer. If you see some crocodile pictures or kingfisher or snake, they were all amazing. It needs a lots effort and determination to capture such beautiful moments.

In the next morning we started early to see how the animals moving from their territory to the jungle for feeding or daily activities. We went to the oxbow lakes to spot some of proboscis monkeys. We saw eagles as they moved to another area, also the famous one –Oriental hornbill. We had another safari in the mid day, then we had broken machine when we back to the camp. Problem was : we got to go upstream, so Lan decided to take a boat by river bank away from the main river. It took us more than 45 minutes through the swamp area with cutting the tree and leaves along the way. We survived by local boat just passed the river, carried us to the Observation Tower opposite the Uncle Tan camp.

There is a list of wildlife animal that we spotted in three days during our stay at Kinabatangan River.

1. Proboscis Monkey (Nasalis larvatus )
2. Long Tailed Macaque (Macaca facicularis)
3. Silvered Leaf Monkey (Trachypithecus cristatus)
4. Red Leaf Monkey (Presbytis rubicunda)
5. Oriental Darter (Anhinga melanogaster)
6. Oriental Pied Hornbill (Anthracoceros albirostris)
7. Asian Black Hornbill (Anthracocecos malayanus)
8. Wrinkled Hornbill (Aceroscor rugatus)
9. Great Egret (Egretta alba)
10. Intermediate Egret – small version (Egretta intermedia)
11. White Collared Kingfisher (Halcyon chloris)
12. Stork Billed Kingfisher (Pelargopsis capensis)
13. Grey Headed Kingfisher
14. Brahminy Kite (Haliastur Indus)
15. Crested Serpent Eagle (Ichthyophaga ichthyaetus)
16. Bornean Blue Flycatcher (Cyorniscaerulatus)
17. Cricket Frog (Rananico bariensis)
18. Brown Bull Frog
19. Green Tree Lizard (Anolisbima culatus)
20. Monitor Lizard (Varanus indicus)
21. Buffy Fish Ow (Ketupa ketupu)
22. Plyn Pygmy Squirrel (Exilisciurus)
23. Stick Insect
24. Orb Weaver (spider)
25. Brown Bush Grasshopper
26. Black Scorpion
27. Dollar Bird (Eurystomus orientalis)
28. Tractor Milipede (black )
29. Giant Milipede (red)
30. Storm Stork (Ciconia stormi)
31. Pig Tailed Macaque (Macaca nemestrina)
32. Short Billed Spiker Minter
33. Flying Foxes (Pteropus hypomelanus)
34. Civet Cat Viverridae
35. White Bellied Woodpecker (Dryocopus javensis)
36. Green Imperial Woodpecker
37. Blue Eared Kingfisher (Alcedo meninting)
38. Malay Badger (Mydaus meliceps)
39. Wolf Spider
40. Frilled Tree Frog
41. Centipede
42. Blue Totter Bee – eater

I m still looking for the latin name for all the animals above. Please inform or correct me.
Update 20 March 2006 : thanks Obot for the corrections !

Borneo Revisited : Uncle Tan Jungle Camp March 16, 2006

Kinabatangan River Borneo, 3-5 March 2005

After a really good night sleep at Summit Lodge in Kinabalu Parks we checked out about 11am to catch the SIDA Express bus to Sandakan. We waited outside the Park until the bright yellow coach turned up. On an email from Eugene, this bus recommended to go to Uncle Tan Wildlife Jungle Camp HQ in Gum Gum village. It took about 4 hours journey to the village. The night before I tried contact Eugene to get latest development about the camp at lower Kinabatangan River. It was flooding in last 3 weeks so we just want to know whether the water level started residing.

On the junction of KK-Sandakan-Tawau, we’ve been stop due the immigration control. The officer with blue uniform in military style carrying riffle jumped up to our bus to checking ID or passport. I sat on the very end of the bus and got my chance. He asked my ID and I gave him my scruffy Indonesian passport. He quick glanced on it and notice few things. Then he smiled (pfffff…thanks God), asked questions in a good manner including where I have been and what I have been doing. The two British bloke just left without checking.

The bus driver knew where we should go. So we ended up in the Batu 16 Gum Gum just by the Uncle Tan office. You can easily spot this office since they put a big sign on top of their second floor where several basic room for stay overnight. We would not stay in this place. We want straight down to the camp –about 2 hours away from the HQ. But we got problem. They did not mention that we should arrive in their office at least at 130pm, otherwise we will missed the shuttle transport to the boat point. I argued that last night when I rang them I clearly mention that we will arrive at 3pm. And we did, not missed a single minute. We understood that we would not get chance to see orang utans at Sepilok Rehabilitation Centre. But that what we wanted. We just want to go to the camp.

After negotiation and calling the big boss (Eugene –apparently he is the son of late Uncle Tan), he agreed to transport us with fancy Toyota 4wheel drive fully AC at 5pm. Thanks for the email correspondence before our arrival and also Mark’s tips about using camera flash. So here we are….on the fancy car. We drove back to the road junction and again met the immigration control. But now they seemed not bothered about us. I asked about these to Shahril -the Uncle Tan driver. He said that Malaysia aware about potential smuggle immigrants from either Indonesia nor Philippine.

About 6pm we reached the Batu Puteh village not far from Kinabatangan Bridge. I saw kids swimming happily in the muddy river when the sun started going down. These kids enjoyed the river just like their parents. Some of the parents went to fishing with nets on a simple boat. A lady showed me proudly her half day fishing : a bucket full of fresh water prawn and fishes. A lovely selection…She said that flooding led more fishes to go further, meant you can easily caught them in the net.

Someone coming with a warm welcome. The guy –about late 20s typical Asian, dark skin, well built, long hair with a black Uncle Tan T-shirt gave a hand to everybody. His name is Lan. He would take us to the camp along with two others kids. On the dark, we set off with the boat. On our way, Lan showed us animals that he’ve seen it in just a glance with his bright spotlight. It took about an hour to reach the camp through oxbow lake and floodplain of Kinabatangan river. As I mention before, the camp in flooding conditions, means that now the camp became a water camp. Actually the location of the camp is by Danau Girang or Lot No 6 on the Wildlife Sanctuary. The sanctuary level means that people can across the land without permission but not allowed to logging or farming.

An oil lamp in the dining room was the only source of light, quietly dimmed the rooms. Sound of owls and frogs gave impression to remoteness of this place. The dining area was the only place that we can stay that night. The rest of the camp was about half on top of water level. The huts that supposed to stay were totally un habituated. On that room we met three people from Sweden that arrived earlier on that day. They been waiting for us for dinner and the night safari. I can see that the room already been set up with 4 matras with mosquito net hanging about 2ft from the floor. This is our dining, bathroom and also sleeping room for the next 3 days. Since I am the only women in this camp, Mark had to drag me out with the boat every time I need to wee (apparently we called it No 1 need and the No 2 need you can guess what it was…).

We had a good dinner on that night, A pack of rice with lots of stir fried vegetables and chicken curry (with lots bones of course !). Then we have a half an hour briefing about what the Wildlife Jungle Camp about. Since flooding we were second guest in this camp. Most of them cancelled the program due the incapability of the place. Imagine that in the dry conditions the camp actually quite spartan and basic. With the flooding even drink water and toilet would be major problems. You’ve got to prepare for this situation. Previously we had to filling the disclaimer form regarding the flooding, including possibility that we couldn’t spot as many as animals that used to be easy to find in this area including elephants and orang utans.

The first night safari were great, we spotted frogs, owls, eagles, scorpions and flying foxes. In two hours we were scattering the river tried to find animals. Lan was really experienced guide. He told us the latin name, common habitat and the diet of each animal we found. I excited with this new experience, specially I am not a wildlife photographer. Lan himself is a keen wildlife photographer. Most of pictures on the board of the camp and the HQ were him. Eugene –his boss also a mad photographer. If you see some crocodile pictures or kingfisher or snake, they were all amazing. It needs a lots effort and determination to capture such beautiful moments.

In the next morning we started early to see how the animals moving from their territory to the jungle for feeding or daily activities. We went to the oxbow lakes to spot some of proboscis monkeys. We saw eagles as they moved to another area, also the famous one –Oriental hornbill. We had another safari in the mid day, then we had broken machine when we back to the camp. Problem was : we got to go upstream, so Lan decided to take a boat by river bank away from the main river. It took us more than 45 minutes through the swamp area with cutting the tree and leaves along the way. We survived by local boat just passed the river, carried us to the Observation Tower opposite the Uncle Tan camp.

There is a list of wildlife animal that we spotted in three days during our stay at Kinabatangan River.

1. Proboscis Monkey (Nasalis larvatus )
2. Long Tailed Macaque (Macacafacicularis)
3. Silvered Leaf Monkey (Trachypithecus cristatus)
4. Red Leaf Monkey (Presbytis rubicunda)
5. Oriental Darter (Anhinga melanogaster)
6. Oriental Pied Hornbill (Anthracoceros albirostris)
7. Asian Black Hornbill (Anthracocecos malayanus)
8. Wrinkled Hornbill (Aceroscor rugatus)
9. Great Egret (Egretta alba)
10. Intermediate Egret – small version (Egretta intermedia)
11. White Collared Kingfisher (Halcyonchloris)
12. Stork Billed Kingfisher (Pelargopsis capensis)
13. Grey Headed Kingfisher
14. Brahminy Kite (Haliastur Indus)
15. Crested Serpent Eagle (Ichthyopha gaichthyaetus)
16. Bornean Blue Flycatcher (Cyorniscaerulatus)
17. Cricket Frog (Rananico bariensis)
18. Brown Bull Frog
19. Green Tree Lizard (Anolisbima culatus)
20. Monitor Lizard (Varanus indicus)
21. Buffy Fish Ow (Ketupa ketupa)
22. Plyn Pygmy Squirrel (Exilisciurus)
23. Stick Insect
24. Orb Weaver (spider)
25. Brown Bush Grasshopper
26. Black Scorpion
27. Dollar Bird (Eurystomus orientalis)
28. Tractor Milipede (black )
29. Giant Milipede (red)
30. Storm Stork (Ciconia stormi)
31. Pig Tailed Macaque (Macaca nemestrina)
32. Short Billed Spiker Minter
33. Flying Foxes (Pteropus hypomelanus)
34. Civet Cat Viverridae
35. White Bellied Woodpecker
36. Green Imperial Woodpecker
37. Blue Eared Kingfisher (Alcedo meninting)
38. Malay Badger (Mydaus meliceps)
39. Wolf Spider
40. Frilled Tree Frog
41. Centipede
42. Blue Totter Bee – eater

I m still looking for the latin name for all the animals above. Please inform or correct me.

Borneo Revisited 1 : Mt Kinabalu March 13, 2006

We arrived in Kota Kinabalu (KK) from JB at 28 Feb 2005 late evening. Flight been retimed two hours from the schedule. Air Asia sent sms regarding this matter that allow me to book domestic flight in Borneo. From airport to the Borneo Backpacker-place we stayed that night we took taxi cost RM17 (15minutes drive). Just book in and served with dormitory room without AC cost RM20 each. Not too bad though, soon we realized that this time was off peak season and not weekend days.

We couldn’t sleep that night. We reckoned the room was quite hot and loud. The location of the BB lied by the main road in KK. We heard motorcycle drove madly by skidding all around the city at 2am ! Next morning we were heading to National Parks by walk to the shuttle bus to bus station. Only 5 minutes walk from BB. We took 730am bus then catches the 745am express bus to Sandakan. We paid RM20 each on the site and jumped ourselves into it. The journey was quite pleasant with view of the villages and hill side of the Kinabalu. It took 2 hours then we reached the parks at 10am.

I straight to the Sutera Sanctuary Lodge counter to resume our booking. Then register on the Parks counter. All the paper work regarding our climbing and accommodation also pay by cash for climbing permits (RM100each for foreigner, guide RM70, insurance RM7 and plus storage for bag each RM10). But we did not have that all amount the money ! We got to pay in US dollars which is not recommended. We did not have choice, this is our fault that we forgot to get some cash while we were in JB. Never mind …

All sort it then we got climbing permits. Wow fancy badges (hmm make sure that we will swap in when we were on top Mt Kinabalu ) and several forms that gave in to our guide Ben John as checking note. At 1030 we started walking with several people behind. The first 2km were lovely, mainly lots people walked up and walked down. The vegetation just like jungle forest with fern and trees. Then we reached the km 4.5 where we found nepenthes or pitcher plants. Some of them were enormous with diameter of 20-30cm, some were tiny about 0.5cm in diameter. Bright red rhododendron were really pretty while mountain white orchid was everywhere near the path.
The last kilometer was hard and tough. I started feeling exhausted apart from not enough having sleep a night before, but also the gradient becoming more vertical. We pushed our luck to get the resthouse before dark. Ben Jon really helpful with carrying my rucksack on half way up. I was end up carrying camera and video/audio equipment instead. The Nat Park rule about porter carrying load was maximum at 10kg per person and you got to pay them about RM50. But mine was about 11kg !

Around 330pm we arrived at Laban Rata resthouse –a two storey building with rooms for rest and a fancy restaurant. Actually there are three more huts in this area but only Laban Rata is the biggest and warmest. Eventually with RM69 per night for dormitory room sound luxury in this altitude. But I thought a cup of Sabah tea was reward for today walking.
We had to share a room with three Malaysian. The dorm itself was OK, quite tidy for us. We just need a good sleep and good food. There is NO hot shower even the parks promise that in their website. Imagine you had to do shower in temperature about 5C water ! The sensation was unbearable. I did manage though ! The foods were fantastic specially chicken and corn soup also deep fried banana with sabah tea. Hm lovely…

We went to bed early at 6pm ahead from the Malaysian gank. Then it came. The sound of snore from the girl next to me was so loud that I can’t believe those irritating sound from. I couldn’t sleep again until 1 o’clock while that girl woke up and put the light on. Oh Dear ! Started climbing about 230 after a light breakfast and cup a tea. The climbing was quite straight forward while we have to do in the dark. The weather helped quite lots. No rain during our walking earlier and those night was clear with stars. A big number of climber that night, I reckoned about 200 people attempted to conquer the summit.

The granite slope of Kinabalu actually not slippery at all. The life line that remark the path was helpful to see the way. But useless to hold your hands while their been set up too low to the ground. I thought it might be set for descent rather than accent Kinabalu. Then after quite taxing climb about 3.5 hours we managed to reach the Low’s Peak (4,095.2m) and watched the sunrise behind King Edward peak. The sheer rock from St John Peak and the Donkey Peak were amazing. After dark out and sun arise we could see the rock formations on the U shape that divide the Low’s peak with others. The chilly wind was not too bad apart from the temperature drop about zero.

We celebrated Mark’s birthday right on top of Kinabalu with flag that me and Paul prepared earlier on. The walked down through granite was quite easy. I did not need rope for most of the section, but few of them need descending in right way due the gradient. I can say that most of the stone walks were safe for fit and in good shape after spent hours ascending. The view still amazing, and with morning light was a perfect for photographing the peaks on that day. The weather still on our side, no fog and clouds appeared during our descent. The temperature was improving just like the sun started arising. It was gorgeous !

It took about 2.5 hours to reach Laban Rata. With cup a tea that heal our fatigue from sleepless night we started our day . Then another breakfast that make our morning looked perfect. Two hours later we were heading down back to the main gate. Again the pain of walking down start hurting my legs. We were keep moving specially in last 3km, stopped only when raining poring down. Believe me that was a maschocistic trekking down ..

We managed to take pictures of plants along the path, specially nepenthes and necklace orchids. Birds were everywhere, mainly they eats wild berry that grow abundantly in this area. The Mountain Blackeye and Yellow Breasted Warbler were move really quick if we try catch them. Anyway we had many pictures of plants and also many interesting species to see.

We headed down to the gate and arrived about 4pm. The shuttle bus that carry us to the park was waiting. Then we reported our descent and also get the key for our place in Summit Lodge. I need to negotiate with local driver to arrange transport for Mark to Kadazan village –the nearest place to get cash money. It cost RM15 about a half an hour for him before appeared at our pretty lodge. The lodge have two bedrooms and nice beds. That’s what we need. After not much sleep in last two days and a hard 11.5km walking, we definitely need proper sleep.

Onroad 1 Borneo Revisited : Mt Kinabalu March 5, 2006

Setiba di Kota Kinabalu 28 Feb malam diputuskan menginap sebelum menuju Taman Nasional. Borneo Backpacker di tengan kota rasanya bukan pilihan yang tepat. Letaknya yang terlalu dekat jalan membuat mata tak bisa terpejam. Esoknya kami mengejar bis paling pagi pukul 0800 menuju Kinabalu Nat Parks dengan bas espress menuju Sandakan/Tawau. Ongkosnya RM20 per orang dengan fasilitas lengkap (AC, film malaysia terbaru dan air minum). Dari KK menuju pintu gerbang Kinabalu Parks adalah 2 jam perjalanan (tepatnya 88 km). Langsung menuju konter Sutera Sanctuary Lodge untuk resume booking. Semua paperwork seperti pembayaran climbing permits RM100, asuransi, fee guide dsb dilakukan di konter dengan bayar cash. Kami ngg sedia ringgit banyak, akibatnya terpaksa bayar dengan dollar. Gerundelan mulai dateng : ih kenapa seh Malaysia ini komersial banget dengan TN ini (ketauan jawabnya belakangan….)

Kami start agak siang sekitar pukul 11. Ternyata mereka kehabisan guide hari itu, kami karus menunggu satu jam untuk dicarikan guide dari desa Kudasang -penduduk lokal yang tinggal sekitar 7km dari Nat Park. Tak lama seorang muda berbadan sedang dengan muka bulat cerah menghampiri. ia memperkenalkan diri sebagai Ben Jon -guide kami hari ini.
Dalam 2 km pertama rute sangat menyenangkan, kebanyakan berupa hutan tropik. Cuaca hari itu bersahabat. Hanya sedikit hujan hingga km 4.5 memasuki Layang-Layang Hut. Untuk 2km terakhir rasanya kaki makin berat. Bukan saja gradient makin tajam, namun bentukan tangga dari batu cukup melelahkan dengkul saya yang mulai terseret. Soal minum rasanya no problem. Setiap pos memang disediakan air dalam tong, cuma sayangnya ini tidak ditanggung bersih (untreated water). Sebaiknya memang bawa minum sendiri.

Sekitar pukul 330pm kami sampai di Laban Rata resthouse (sekitar 3200dpl). Kami terhitung agak telat karena start yang lambat. Setiba disana telah menunggu teh Sabah yang kental itu. Sisa hari kami habiskan makan minum tidur. Di Laban Rata kami harus sharing dengan tiga orang lainnya dalam satu kamar. Hari itu kami dicampur dengan pendaki dari Malaysia. Payahnya : cewek yang tidur samping saya mendengkur lumayan keras. Hasilnya cuma tidur efektif selama 4 jam.

Summit attack mulai pukul 0200 pagi. Tapi kami habiskan sarapan ringan di Laban Rata dengan secangkir teh dan roti seadanya. Lumayan seh daripada kosong. Kami dengar beberapa pendaki ada yang mengawali sekitar tengah malam. Dari resthouse mnuju puncak berjarak 2.5km dengan perkiraan tempuh normal 4-5 jam. Lalu lintas cukup padat malam itu membuat susah sekali menjaga jarak dan menikmati indahnya bintang2 di langit yang luar biasa jernih.

Sekitar gully di Donkey Ear sebenarnya lapisan batu granite Kinabalu tidaklah selicin yang saya duga. Tanpa tali pengamanpun bisa dilampaui tergantung pada kepercayaan diri dan jenis sepatu anda. Lagipula di beberapa bagian, setting tali pengaman terlalu rendah memaksa posisi badan menjadi seperti merambat. Ini malah makin membuat susah pergerakan. Sebelum sunset kami bisa melampaui Low’s peak dan menikmati sunrise. Suhu di puncak diperkirakan mencapai OC karena beberapa kolam air di puncak menunjukkan tanda adanya es di permukaan. Saya perkirakan hanya 60% yang bisa tiba di puncak hari itu. Ada tiga titik kontrol di Kinabalu. Satu di registrasi, kedua di Timpohon Gate ketiga di summit. Jadi memang tertata dan memudahkan monotoring para pendaki yang jumlahnya ratusan perhari. Keharusan menggunakan guide juga amat bagus sebagai pengawal dan memberikan pengetahuan lapangan tentang Taman Nasional terutama habitat flora dan fauna.

Next : jungle camp with mad man Lan
versi bahasa Inggris di sini

Virtual Reality Photos : my first contribution July 5, 2005

Finally after three days of hardship this is the first contribution for World Wide Panorama. A massive Project was sponsored by the Geography Computing Facility University of California Barkeley that website been facilitated in The Geo Images Project. The panorama was the form of immersive virtual reality photography that had independence to look around 360 degree view.

This event was carried out to welcome June Solstice. Scheduling for taking pictures, editing and posting being coordinated by G Donald Bain and Landis Bennet. While the site server was handed over to Markus Altendorff.

I only could make cylindrical type which is a traditional VR because of the limitations of the equipment and software. For the camera that I with was Nikon D70 with the position potrait. Panohead for the tripod used Manfrotto 330. For Tioman Project I used software PTMac free trial for stitching and the production of the panorama in QTVR format. Also QuickTime 7. 0 Pro and Photoshop Element 3. 0 to editing. I glanced at RealViz Stitcher that more powerful from PTMac. Only I was waiting for confirmation for student edition price. For my computer used PowerMac G5.

Ironically around 500 photographers that participated only me that came from Indonesia. Another thing is this a very first work was about Tioman – a tiny island in Malaysia. I really want to produce a panorama that represent Indonesia’s beauty. Imangine that Indonesia has soooo many islands (12,ooo including Bali). Shame that on that time (16-24 June) I had not been in Indonesia, but learn how to snorkell in Tioman. I have seen several VR photos about Indonesia in World Heritage theme. They are wonderfull VR pictures of Borobudur (a biggest budhist temple) in every level. Unfortunately this was not created by Indonesians.

To make cubic and spherical I need more hardship. At least this is a first step for next projects. One of them is to make a virtual map to my hometown Yogyakarta as part of the tourist promotion. Unfortunately (again) I am not a programmer/webdesign that could produce a very nice website. Please anybody help me !!!!

After you have a look at mine, please feel free to look at the other entries. Some are really good. Theme for this event is Water to celebrate June Solstice. We took pictures of Tioman jetty point when we had a long weekend. You might have experience for being there if you moving around panorama.

Snorkelling lessons at Tioman Island June 22, 2005

Coral reef at Tioman island

Oh true, this is my first snorkelling ever. As you know, I am terribly couldn’t float very well. Wet suit might help, still I need life jacket on. Phobic….hmmm yep, specially face to face with a group of really big big fish.

We spent long weekend in Tioman Island. About 134 km from Johor Bahru/JB Malaysia. To cross the island we had a bumpy ride with speedboat from Mersing around 2 hours. We stayed at Salang village, furthest north of the island. This site was best for diving and snorkelling. And sooo quiet.
The accomodation was quite good. We had RM40 per night at a chalet with fan or you’ll get more sophisticated one with Air Con cost around RM100. The food was fantastic. Lots of seafood and juice. Recommended : terabali fish and squid BBQ. They did it with banana leaf and soy sauce served with sambal (chili).

We managed to have a snorkelling tour on Sunday. It cost RM50 per person, that were just fab ! Three sites of snorkelling : Coral Reef, Tulai island and Monkey Bay. The best one was the Coral Reef. I am very nervous when started it. Soon I went down and saw the fish, I forgot my fear. They were soooo beautiful. We fed them with bits of apple. Some fish were so excited and bite my finger or knee.

Those pictures taken with Kodak disposable camera. Yes the cheapy one (its $14.95 or RM50). Mark need to dive down to get the best view. And that was worth it. Except I lost my glasses at Monkey Bay ’cause the monkey nicked it. Yes the monkey. I bet they can read now.

Borneo Sarawak May 2005 The Pinnacles June 14, 2005

Pinnacles of Mt Api

Day 3 Mon 24/05/05 The Pinnacles (Mt. Api)

There were around 4 groups that would climbing today. One from Singapore, the big party from Malaysia with a film crew, five foreign tourists and our team. Most teams around 5 to 10 people. Only ours that had two and a guide. We’ve been told that we will depart in the morning around 700am.

Finished packing we set to the footpath not far from camp 5. My feeling just too moody this morning. Possibly because I hadn’t have enough sleep overnight. Heavy rain really made the zinc roof become noisy. The footpath went upwards with moderate grade. My stomach started feeling funny. Then about half an hour half climbing I vomited. I reckond caused by digestion system too much forced to work along with the foot muscle. Strangely after vomiting I felt a lot better. Only apparently needed the energy bar to replace my breakfast.

The route was good, occasionally with the rope. Designed t descend when rockeries and tree’s root became slippery. The forest was very calm with high density of leaves and branches. We rarely got direct sun. This trek only 2.4 km but this one was totally vertical. In Guidebook was said most fit people did in 3-4 hours climbing. Just to remind you that this route actually “maschocistic route” rather that pleasant one. It was essential to bring a day pack as minimal as possible. I saw several mineral bottles placed in the edge of the route for supply. At least each brought two litres, ideally around 3 litres of water. No water resource all along the route.

The Pinnacles actually limestone layers that experienced the erosion because of the rain flow. This made his construction become sharp such as an iron bars. Moreover the height could reach 30-40m. The Pinnacles location was in the slope Mt Api (1750m) . It did not been climb yet for the real peak. A mountain nearby Mt Benarat (1580m) Although short but also was not yet been touched. The only one that could be climbed was Mt Mulu (2376m). It climbed by Lord Shackleton (son of Ernest Shackleton ) in 1932. Anyway for me the Pinnacles was more than enough.

Around 10an we arrived in a third of the last part (I called it:The iron route ). There was a plank of the warning that you should arrive here before 11am otherwise you have to come back. The reason because of the weather was often changed. The fog and possibly rain also make the route become so difficult. There were around 14 iron ladders and some auxiliary bridge with help of the rope that helped through the layer limestone.

The route changed to crawled, scrambling and climbing. For me that was more interesting because quite taxing. So do not believe if guide or the operator’s tour mentioned this route as moderate. Richard-our guide even regarded the Pinnacles heavier compared with Mt Kinabalu at the level of difficulty. It was just fortunate that today was bright that the route not too slippery.

After total 4 climb hours, in wet of sweat shirt we were able to see the Pinnacles. It was speechless. Extraordinary! The fog also just lifted, so we could enjoyed the band of pointed rock that looked challenging the sky. Along with us two more parties, two Singaporean and a group of foreign tourists. The place to enjoy the Pinnacles also really narrow. It only can hold people around 10-15 people with some climbing the tree unlike a football pitch.

In here also I could chit-chat with one of the trekkers. Just because she wore shirt that be inscribed: the General Election 2004 The election of Miss Lucu Indonesia. Lucu mean funny in Bahasa Indonesia. Another stories flowed related about her experiences spent 4 months in Indonesia. From climbing Mt Merapi, Mt Semeru (highest in Java) and her efforts reached Mt Rinjani (second highest in Indonesia). Miss Lucu said that Indonesia was the most beautiful place that she visited. She promised to come back.

Borneo Serawak May 2005 Mulu Nat Park (part IV) June 8, 2005

To explore Mulu we have to use local guides. Park HQ had Park Rangers that ready to accompany you. The tariff was fixed including a fee during your stay at the camp. For Pinnacles the tariff would be RM400 (3D/2N per group), while Headhunters trail was RM160.

From Melinau river we dropped by at Penan settlement. This ethnic group traditionally was nomadic, but at this time only around 4% that still hunting in the forest. Other became the rice farmer, the roots or sago. While the woman made craft for tourists. Generally they speak with Berawan, the language for people who live in upstream (Orang Ulu), but they could communicate with the Malay. One story is most of the Penan could not swim, but after settlement the new Penan generations began to be adapting with the life at the river bank.

The settlement that I was visited got three longhouses. But they were separated into three different row of the longhouse. According to Richard-our guide several years ago a big fire destroyed some of the housse so government decided to separated them in prevent of future fire. I saw several Bilek –small family room that also separated from main house even still in one complex. They maintained chickens, dogs also monkey. There was an old church for the religious activity. Ethnic groups in Borneo indeed followed the Christian Catholic religion but not meant animism was left.

I would like to have the Parang (big knife) and blowpipe – their traditional weaponry. But this could be the problem in immigration. Finally admired the flute bamboo that was blown through the nose. Also a piece of bamboo that was scared in the mouth to create sound. One musical instrument that interested me was a guitar that string was sliced from bamboo skin.

Here we needed one porter to deliver logistic to camp 5. A young Penan man was woken up from his siesta. That meant there would be five people on the boat headed to Kuala Berar. Beforehand we visited two more caves that only could be accessed by the boat, namely Clearwater cave and Wind cave.

Wind cave almost equally pretty with Lang cave. The first caught me was the karst layer that visible younger also was seen dry. King Chamber one of the view was very interesting because stalactite were slim almost a stick like iron bars that continued with stalagmite. While Clearwater cave had long system with the river connected in. I guaranteed its water was pristine very much like its name. Here we found the construction of stalagmites that like been cut off. They named him Adam and Eve because a pair.

After lunch we headed back by boat again. The Melinau river not really deep-about 1 foot high, We had several times that the boat machine knocked the rock at the bottom of the river. Only occasionally was gotten by the swift flow that made Richard issue his oars.

Around 1 hour afterwards we arrived in the Kuala Berar. From here we will begin trekking 8km headed to camp 5. The elevation was just flat, but when in the forest a eight kilo felt twice like its fold. According to signpost it only two hours but these more likely apply to local people. The young porter has departed first with the cane basket that was connected in the head.

I have no problem with mosquitoes but that was leech that I most worry about. My fear became reality after an one hour trekking suddenly torrential rain poured down. This would make the leech attack get cruel. Leech uses temperature sensitivity to look for prey. When rain the temperature tended to drop made them easy to identify casualties. Several times this cute animal attached itself on my foot and often crawl into my face ( they caught at the raincoat that I worn). After approximately three hours trekking including resting for 1/2 hour finally we arrived in camp 5.

Thing to do next was “leech operation”-took off all clothes and shoes. Result: three leeches on my foot successfully sucked my blood and one leech on my back that keep bleeding for nearly half an hour. Apparently several leeches fell on my rucksack. To release it we use insect repellent with 100% deet.

Camp 5 was very comfortable. Had 5 big rooms that per room was able to sleep around 10 people. The benches for sleep was equipped the foam layer. Also they have public’s kitchens and clean bathroom. When getting dark a generator will lit the light along the beds. In the roof lined up solar panel as an addition of the electricity power. In here we will remain for two nights during the climb of the Pinnacles the next day and continued trekking Headhunter’s trail to Nanga Medamit.

To be continued (climbing the Pinnacles and the story about Miss Lucu)